Our nightly journey had brought us to the westernmost realm of the Galapagos Archipelago. Our expedition leader hoped that the frigid waters of the Cromwell Current would allow us to see big marine mammals because the animals depend on the nutrient-rich waters. At 6:15 a.m., a wake-up call let us rise to a beautiful morning with the sun still low on the horizon. The captain circumnavigated the remote outcrop of Roca Redonda—coffee; fruits and snacks were available in the library. All early birds were satisfied by not only seeing the rock which is the home to thousands of birds, but also several Bottle-nose Dolphins (Tusiops truncates) jumping at the stern of the Polaris.

Roca Redonda

Then, we had a rare sighting of Pilot Whales (Globicephala macrorhynchus) near the Polaris.

Pilot Whales (Globicephala macrorhynchus)

After breakfast, we were in the vicinity of Volcan Ecuador, a spectacular shielded volcano on Isabela Island. Around 8:30 am we crossed the equator line for the second time. Although none of us could feel the announced “big bump”, another surprise awaited us: Neptune visited our ship. The kids (being prepared and wearing bathing suits) were crowded together, had to drink Sea Lion blood (red fruit juice), kiss a dead fish (a lobster tail from the kitchen) and were sprayed wet with a hose by pirates (masqueraded naturalists).

Volcan Ecuador

Marine Iguanas (Amblyrhynchus cristatus)

Galapagos Penguins (Spheniscus mendiculus)

Brown Pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis)

A zodiac cruise along Punta Vicente Roca followed the spectacle and allowed us to take pictures of Green Sea Turtles (Chelonia agassizii) coming up to the surface for breathing. We also could observe lots of Marine Iguanas (Amblyrhynchus cristatus) climbing out of the ocean back onto the warm black lava rock. For the first time we met a Galapagos Penguin (Spheniscus mendiculus). Later, we also spotted our first Flightless Cormoran (Nannopterum harrisi). On our return trip to the Polaris, we saw an Ocean Sunfish (Mola Mola) which was about eight feet long. This fish has no tail and therefore a somewhat strange way to swim. It came close to the zodiac and moved its dorsal fin quickly to splash at us. Even the naturalist and zodiac driver were totally enthusiastic. On the Polaris, we had a few minutes to change into our wetsuits and grab our snorkeling gear. Then, we went back onto the zodiacs for a snorkeling outing at the same spot. Underwater, we were practically surrounded by Green Sea Turtles which measured between three and five foot in shell length. Sophia who did not want to snorkel too long in the 68 F water saw several of them from nearby. Alexandra snorkeled for a while and also observed many different fish species. After an hour, we were not yet ready to leave the water; there were still too many things to be seen. But, our full program did not allow extensions.

Starting a Zodiac Ride from the Polaris

Lava Cave

Green Sea Turtle

Galapagos Sea Lion Baby

Flightless Cormoran (Nannopterum harrisi)

Blue-footed Boobies (Sula nebouxii)

Ocean Sunfish (Mola Mola)

After a lunch which featured teriyaki grouper among other delicacies, the Polaris anchored in front of Fernandina Island. Fernandina has strong volcanic activities and is actually the most active volcano in the world. The last eruption of the 5,000 feet-elevated volcano took place in May, 2005, just one year before we were there. Our landing site, Punta Espinosa, did not show the black and lifeless characteristics of fresh lava flows. Instead, we found already mangroves and endemic lava cacti characteristic for older lava landscapes. Two pelicans guarded the mangrove entrance, sitting on a huge rock left and right of the entrance.

Brown Pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis)

Mangrove

Endemic Lava Cacti

Many Marine Iguanas occupied the area, either sitting in full sun to warm up their bodies after a dive in the cold water or straight towards the sun with erected head, to cast a shadow onto their own body in order to prevent overheating. Some of them ate algae exposed by low tide by tilting their head to the side and using their back teeth to scrape off the thin layer of algae. It was interesting to see how the iguanas expel salt water through their nostrils every few minutes. This salt excretion mechanism is independent from the kidneys which can only excrete 1% salt content—not enough if you drink 3.5% salty sea water. The noise and the sight of the sneezing with salt water spraying up to 60 inches away is rather disgusting.

Marine Iguanas (Amblyrhynchus cristatus)

Sally Lightfoot Crabs

Young Lava

Sea Lion Jaw Bone

Marine Iguana (Amblyrhynchus cristatus)

After a dry landing we wandered around at our own pace and observed a Great Blue Heron (Ardea herodias) chasing Galapagos Lava Lizards (Microlophus albemarlensis) as well as many Flightless Cormorans.

Great Blue Heron (Ardea herodias)

Polaris

On one spot, we found the skeleton of a whale which was about 30 feet long. Daniel, the naturalist for our group, explained the functions of the different bones.

Alexandra and Sophia With a Skeleton of a Whale

Alexandra Chased by a Sea Lion

Lava Rock Beach

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